A Means of Escape

IMG_0072This photo is from the rather dusty archives, but I remember exactly where and when it was taken.  Mexico, Progresso to be precise, November 1994.

It was my first trip to Mexico, and after a few hectic days in Mexico City we had flown to Merida, where we hired a car with the intention of driving across the Yucatan peninsular, from the Gulf of Mexico to the Caribbean.  This was the first day of having the car, and we took a day trip north out of Merida, to the coast at Progresso.  It still bore some of the scars of hurricane damage from a couple of years before, but there were wide sandy beaches and the ocean, and the first lunch, of grilled fish, we had really enjoyed  since arriving in the country.

This was the moment I really felt like I was on holiday, that I had escaped from normal life for a while.  It helped that the sun was shining, and that we had, with no planning whatsoever, hired the perfect little red car; a car so distinctive, and so unlike the usual anodyne hire car, that just seeing it in a photo reminds me of a whole holiday.  And look, it was still shiny.  By the time we had completed our trip, it was covered in dust, but had been the envy of many of the people,  we had encountered along the way, especially tourists on group coach trips denied our ability to escape from the crowds.

For Free in the City

2013-05-15 15.46.45Continuing my project to try out new and, where possible, inexpensive or free, things in London, to challenge that assumption that everything here is expensive, I spent a day this week in the City.  Were it not for the rather nice lunch I had(!), I could say that the day cost me nothing other than the public transport fares.

I started out at the Museum in the Bank of England.  Until I visited the Sir John Soane Museum last year, I hadn’t known that there even was a museum at the Bank, but then subsequently on walks along Threadneedle St towards the Tube station, I’d noticed a sign on a wooden stand by one of the grand doors indicating that the entrance to the Museum was around the corner (in Bartholomew St), and each time I would remind myself that I’d like to visit.

Inside, a chronological history of the Bank leads you through the evolution of the building, from small beginnings on Threadneedle Street, through the building of the Soane edifice, to its subsequent remodelling in the 20th century.  I was entranced by some drawings of the construction work in the 1930s, such detail and precision in pen and ink drawings, showing the huge hole in the centre of the exterior walls which seem to be the only remaining sections of the Soane design.  Digging big holes in the City is clearly not a new phenomenon.

The Royal charters signed by King William and Mary are there too; huge scrolls filled with elaborate and densely packed writing, which at first was impossible to decipher, both for its arcane language and ancient script.  We debated for a few minutes whether it was in Latin, until some of the words came into focus as English.

I had a go at lifting up a gold bar (secured within a perspex box and observed by no less than four security cameras), and examining all the security features of a £50 note under a brightly lit magnifier.  And in between, absorbed the history and evolution of the bank from a purely commercial enterprise with an initial capital of £1.2m to its current role as effectively one of the organs of State. There was also a fair amount of pointing at old bank notes, with exclamations of  ’I remember them’ together with the realisation that there was a £20 note in circulation in the 1970s and very early 80s that we had never seen, such a large amount of money was it at the time.

There were interactive displays explaining inflation to children, and a booklet to explain Quantitative Easing to everyone else.  I took one, because, if I’m completely honest I don’t really understand it, and, after reading the booklet, I’m still not sure I do….

From the Bank, via the aforementioned lunch, we made our way to the Guildhall Art Gallery, to discover that in fact it is called ‘The Guildhall Art Gallery and Roman Amphitheatre’.  If I’d spent any time thinking about it I suppose  should have known that there would be art in the City; after all where there is wealth, art usually follows, but my assumption would have been that it was all kept behind closed doors in private collections.

The Guildhall apparently has a very large collection dating back to the 15th century, only a small part of which can be displayed at any one time. As a collection it must truly reflect changing tastes and fashions of the wealthy burghers of London over the intervening centuries.  In amongst the pieces currently on display there were things from both the Victorian and mid twentieth century which were not at all to my taste by artists the curators must clearly be hoping will come back into fashion soon.

A temporary exhibition highlighted the depth in the collection of Portraiture, which was fascinating, including Tudor ladies in the finest of laces, each strand and twist of which was painstakingly replicated on canvas, as well as a Holbein of Henry VIII.  And there was a nice synchronicity in that the lady custodian  pointed us in the direction of two full length portraits of our old friends William and Mary, grantors of the Charter to the Bank of England, which have been in the Guildhall collection since they were painted at the end of the 17th century.

And I mustn’t forget the Roman Amphitheatre; in truth, a few remains of stone walls and two glass cases of artefacts, but displayed very effectively in a darkened basement of the Gallery, atmospherically lit to give the opportunity to appreciate some of the scale it might have been.

The day began with me feeling rather ignorant that I’d not known it was possible to visit these places, and I finished it feeling a little better educated; and you can’t say fairer than that.

A Nice Quiet Day at the Seaside?

2013-05-06 12.05.32It was sunny and warm, once the sea fog had lifted, so what better way to spend the morning than to have a stroll along the front?

But rather than strolling along to the gentle rhythm of the ebb and flow of the tide, as soon as I reached the promenade the air was full of the thrum and throb of roaring motorbikes.  Turns out Monday was the day for tens of thousands of bikers to converge on the town, the so-called Bike 1066.  The closer I got to the centre of Hastings, the louder and more all encompassing the noise grew, and I realised I was part of a trickle, and then a  tide of people heading east along the sea front.

IMG_3309Some were dressed in green, garlanded with leaves and ribbons, heading for the traditional Jack in the Green celebration (‘revived’ in the early 1980s….) , others dressed in the ear rings and t-shirts suggesting an interest in motor-sport, and that other motorbike related seaside bank holiday weekend tradition.

By the time I reached the pier, the pavement was already filled with motorbikes, lined up like sardines, and the crowd now included the leather clad, standing in small groups admiring the shiny bits and pieces and accoutrements of biking.  Some arrived individually, others in big gangs all dressed in the same embroidered jackets.  All roaring and revving their engines as much as they could; almost comically show-off-y.

By the time I came to the end of the beach and wanted to turn around and walk back home, the pavements were more choked than those on Oxford Street on the last Saturday before Christmas.  The fish and chip shops were doing good business with queues snaking out across the pavement, and much lemonade was being consumed in pub courtyards.  It was a relief to escape.

But now they all have to drive home…..

Yellow or Black?

IMG_3304My optimism about an improvement in the bank holiday weekend weather proved well founded, and on Sunday we went for a walk along the cliffs in the Hastings Country Park.

If you don’t take the path immediately next to the cliff, depending on the time of the year, and the cycle of land management, you can find yourself in an alleyway banked on both sides by pillows of gorse and broom.  Walking there with friends for whom it was their first visit, I was asked several times where the sea was.  Pointing over the tops of the impenetrable yellow bushes, I launched into an explanation that it wasn’t always so hard to see the sea, that sometimes the banks of bushes are burnt back to control the growth and to clear the area that should, more naturally, be grassland.  The raised eyebrows with which this pronouncement was received indicated a certain scepticism about my information.

So imagine my satisfaction when, over the brow of the next incline we saw this.

IMG_3298

‘Constant Craving…..’

Today’s another day for a little vicarious pride on behalf of a good friend.

Sally Marlow is doing academic research into the effects of alcohol.  She has recently started developing a role as an expert for the BBC and recently hosted a programme on Radio 4 posing the question of whether or not Food Addiction exists.  It’s an interesting debate, in which, of course, widely differing opinions are the meat and drink of discourse; can you distinguish addiction from a habit or a behaviour?

http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b01s4g7v

A Different Perspective

After spending a few days away while some repairs were being done to my flat, I returned home with some trepidation, wondering what I 2013-04-21 16.45.04would find when I opened the front door.  In truth, I was surprised to find that some reasonable efforts had been made to tidy up and leave the place in order, albeit an unusual one.  The replacement of the floor had meant that everything had been moved, and it had been replaced in quite an eccentric arrangement, or at least, one quite different to the way I had left it.

It could have been laziness, but I prefer to think it is more like a little open mindedness, but I decided to leave it as it was, and only move something when I found that I needed it to be in a different place.  I’ve also tried sitting on each of the chairs and sofas to see the world from a different angle; I thought it might be interesting, or indeed that I might prefer it.

The side tables were the first things that were definitely in the wrong place – there’s always a coffee cup that needs a place to sit, so having the tables at the far end of the room in a row was never going to be efficient.  Next was the light, which illuminates the otherwise rather dim corner; but the green chair was there, so I had to reposition that first.  And then I had to work out how the tangle of wires and cables had been reorganised to get everything working, and I can see how my ‘make it up as I went along’ solution to power cables might make it look like I have some kind of fetishistic obsession with extension leads.

But the little sofa is still in the bay window, and although I don’t think it will stay there permanently, I did enjoy sitting in it yesterday morning while the sun was so bright.

While I hate the upheaval, I can see that it does me good to be forced to look at the world from a different angle every now and again, and to not take my home environment entirely for granted.  I know I will adapt very quickly to the new norm; I noticed that, the five months I had lived with the holes in the damaged floor have been long enough to make me used to stepping over certain spots to avoid the rough edges and bumps, so much so that I continue to do it even though the surface is now pristine and smooth.

It’s a lesson to remember that it’s good to shake things up every now and again, although I will be endeavouring to do it without the precipitating plumbing disaster next time.

A Film and A Curry

What more does one need for a good night out?

Danny Boyle is enjoying something of golden glow at the moment, feted for both the Olympics opening ceremony and a tremendous stage production of Frankenstein within the last couple of years, he has also kept his hand in making films.  I heard him say, in one of the many interviews he has given as part of the publicity for his latest release, Trance, that he made the film in London to escape from the tension of being involved with the Olympics. And the film gives a very different picture of London, a rather dystopian one at that.

Part caper, part psychological thriller, Trance, is the story of a fine art heist.  In return for the settlement of his gambling debts, James McAvoy’s character, a dealer in an auction house, agrees to be the inside man on a plan to steal a highly prized Goya as it goes under the hammer.  The theft goes according to plan, until McAvoy takes a blow to the head and forgets where he has stashed the painting.  To make him recall the location of the loot, Vincent Cassel, the gang leader, sends him to a hypnotist, played by Rosario Dawson.  And from here, the viewer is sent on a looping track of wondering what is real, what is only in the minds of the protagonists, who is the goody, who the baddie, and who’s in charge.

It’s an intriguing set up, and many of the surprise swerves and switchbacks of the plot kept me guessing and puzzled, and it is filled with the swoop and sway and visceral violence which is such a Danny Boyle trademark, but I never quite felt that the final resolution  fully satisfied all the complications along the way, especially as it relied on a fairly long explanation direct to camera by one of the characters to put us all in the picture before the end of the movie.  But it is always a pleasure to see James McAvoy, and especially when he can use his natural Scottish accent.

And after the film we went for a curry, starting off with that traditional Scottish dish Pakora (basically deep fried batter made from chick pea flour) .  I have no idea if this is served anywhere in India, or why it is so popular in the west of Scotland and virtually unavailable in England.  Perhaps it’s because the people who opened the first Indian restaurants in Scotland came from a particular part of the sub continent, or perhaps more likely, if, when they did arrive here, they worked out the Scottish taste for fried things and set about satisfying it.

For me it is a taste from adolescence, from bags of carry out pakora from the local restaurant, eaten on bright summer evenings sitting on a bench on the front overlooking the river with a friend.  So if I’m ever in a curry house in Scotland, it simply has to be part of the order…..
2013-04-17 20.21.25

Change

2013-04-12 13.14.00I’ve had to move all the breakable things in my flat in anticipation of some long awaited repair work, and the act of having to take things of the shelves and wrap them up to store on top of the kitchen cupboards for a couple of weeks, has forced me to look at them.  They are part of my every day environment, my eyes pass over them every time I walk through the front door, but it’s an age since I actually looked at them.  And I’ve got to admit, I’ve got some pretty strange stuff sitting there gathering a layer of dust.

Why exactly do I have this piece of classic Russian kitsch?  It manages to encompass pretty much all the clichés you can think of, the stove. the woman in a headscarf beside her balalaika playing man in his woven wooden shoes; there’s a samovar, a pitchfork, a scythe and herbs drying in bunches.  If you look hard enough you’ll see the cat on the chimney and I’m sure there must me some mushrooms about somewhere.

I bought it a month or so before I left Moscow at the end of my years of working there.  Until then I’d bought very little of the ubiquitous Russian handicrafts and knick knacks.  I had some paintings I’d bought to brighten up my flat, and I’d some blue and white Gzhel pottery because I’d needed a vase and a teapot, but apart from that I’d avoided all the folk art shopping opportunities   There would always be time to do that later…. until I realised I would be leaving soon.

I undertook a major expedition to the Ismailovsky market with some friends to act as advisers. I got back home after an afternoon of shopping with enough stuff to start my own stall. I’m fairly sure they told me that someone would love this as a gift.   I have yet to identify that person.  It’s lived on several different shelves over the last 15 years, latterly high up on the bookshelves in the hallway, and each time I move it, I wonder why I don’t just give it away to a charity shop, but looking at it now, it immediately brings to mind that day of shopping, and knowing that my time in Russia was coming to an end, and I had no idea what I was going to do next.

It could amount to its reprieve

They’ve Called it The Shed

2013-04-09 17.34.59There’s no missing the new structure that’s been built beside the National Theatre on the Southbank.  In the land of grey weathered concrete, The Shed shouts out its difference.  It’s wood, and it’s red, bright red;  it looks sort of upside down with four feet sticking into the air, and at the moment it is still smelling woody.  It’s just got to be visited.

It’s been built to house new productions suitable for a small house, while the Cottesloe Theatre is being remodelled.  I’ve not been inside yet, but rest assured I will get around to booking to see something, if only to satisfy my curiosity, and to be able to say that I’ve been inside.

Meanwhile, I’m enjoying the serendipity that caught a plane in my snap.

Thatcher Years

The last 24 hours has seen blanket news coverage of the death yesterday of Margaret Thatcher, Britain’s first woman Prime Minister and one of its longest serving.  Winner of three General Elections, her name has been attached to a monetarist economic theory, as well used as a chant of derision in demonstrations and protest.  She was a controversial figure in her lifetime and the recent comments and debates show that she still manages to excite both admiration and loathing in equal measure.

My views fall somewhere in the middle.  Mrs Thatcher was elected in 1979, in the first election in which I was old enough to participate.  I remember voting, and it feeling both quite exciting and a bit anti climactic, but have no memory of for whom I made my mark.  Watching the news clippings of the major events of her premiership, of the 1980s I see the background to my early adulthood, and it seems both like ancient history as well as not much longer ago than the day before yesterday.

While those who have popped up on the screens spouting paeans of praise for her greatness and leadership, have set my teeth on edge, the embittered ones who opposed her and lost, and are still eager to say something disobliging, were even less interesting.

If I never see that clip of film of her on her first arrival at No 10 in 1979 reciting the quotation from St Francis of Assisi again, it will be too soon, but not every policy she followed was bad; and while she may have been the clear leader, making the most of the power of the role of Prime Minister, she won a majority in three elections – someone was voting for her party and not for the other ones.  Everyone who was active during that decade contributed to the unfolding events through either co-operation or opposition, be it the trade unions or the barrow boys in the City.

Much of what has been shown has highlighted the divisiveness of the time, but it was one of great change; and many of those changes were retained by subsequent governments, even those from the opposite side of the debate.  The comments that I have found most interesting are the more nuanced ones: she was good at this, and horrible about that.  She got this right, but misjudged that.  She retained loyalty for these periods and then alienated everyone for that.  She clearly got grander and grander as the years past, and probably served for too long; her ‘we have become a grandmother’ comment being particularly unfortunate, and perhaps a signal that her political end couldn’t be far off.

I felt sad when I heard the news, largely I think, because her death represents the passing of a large segment of my life, and makes me doubly aware of the passage of time.  But I think it’s unlikely I’ll watch her funeral.

Coincidentally, I have recently read Damian Barr’s memoir of growing up in the west of Scotland during the 1980s ‘Maggie and Me‘ in which he describes, as a child,  being both inspired and appalled by Margaret Thatcher in equal measure.  (A review of the book will follow in due course….)

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