For Free in the City

2013-05-15 15.46.45Continuing my project to try out new and, where possible, inexpensive or free, things in London, to challenge that assumption that everything here is expensive, I spent a day this week in the City.  Were it not for the rather nice lunch I had(!), I could say that the day cost me nothing other than the public transport fares.

I started out at the Museum in the Bank of England.  Until I visited the Sir John Soane Museum last year, I hadn’t known that there even was a museum at the Bank, but then subsequently on walks along Threadneedle St towards the Tube station, I’d noticed a sign on a wooden stand by one of the grand doors indicating that the entrance to the Museum was around the corner (in Bartholomew St), and each time I would remind myself that I’d like to visit.

Inside, a chronological history of the Bank leads you through the evolution of the building, from small beginnings on Threadneedle Street, through the building of the Soane edifice, to its subsequent remodelling in the 20th century.  I was entranced by some drawings of the construction work in the 1930s, such detail and precision in pen and ink drawings, showing the huge hole in the centre of the exterior walls which seem to be the only remaining sections of the Soane design.  Digging big holes in the City is clearly not a new phenomenon.

The Royal charters signed by King William and Mary are there too; huge scrolls filled with elaborate and densely packed writing, which at first was impossible to decipher, both for its arcane language and ancient script.  We debated for a few minutes whether it was in Latin, until some of the words came into focus as English.

I had a go at lifting up a gold bar (secured within a perspex box and observed by no less than four security cameras), and examining all the security features of a £50 note under a brightly lit magnifier.  And in between, absorbed the history and evolution of the bank from a purely commercial enterprise with an initial capital of £1.2m to its current role as effectively one of the organs of State. There was also a fair amount of pointing at old bank notes, with exclamations of  ’I remember them’ together with the realisation that there was a £20 note in circulation in the 1970s and very early 80s that we had never seen, such a large amount of money was it at the time.

There were interactive displays explaining inflation to children, and a booklet to explain Quantitative Easing to everyone else.  I took one, because, if I’m completely honest I don’t really understand it, and, after reading the booklet, I’m still not sure I do….

From the Bank, via the aforementioned lunch, we made our way to the Guildhall Art Gallery, to discover that in fact it is called ‘The Guildhall Art Gallery and Roman Amphitheatre’.  If I’d spent any time thinking about it I suppose  should have known that there would be art in the City; after all where there is wealth, art usually follows, but my assumption would have been that it was all kept behind closed doors in private collections.

The Guildhall apparently has a very large collection dating back to the 15th century, only a small part of which can be displayed at any one time. As a collection it must truly reflect changing tastes and fashions of the wealthy burghers of London over the intervening centuries.  In amongst the pieces currently on display there were things from both the Victorian and mid twentieth century which were not at all to my taste by artists the curators must clearly be hoping will come back into fashion soon.

A temporary exhibition highlighted the depth in the collection of Portraiture, which was fascinating, including Tudor ladies in the finest of laces, each strand and twist of which was painstakingly replicated on canvas, as well as a Holbein of Henry VIII.  And there was a nice synchronicity in that the lady custodian  pointed us in the direction of two full length portraits of our old friends William and Mary, grantors of the Charter to the Bank of England, which have been in the Guildhall collection since they were painted at the end of the 17th century.

And I mustn’t forget the Roman Amphitheatre; in truth, a few remains of stone walls and two glass cases of artefacts, but displayed very effectively in a darkened basement of the Gallery, atmospherically lit to give the opportunity to appreciate some of the scale it might have been.

The day began with me feeling rather ignorant that I’d not known it was possible to visit these places, and I finished it feeling a little better educated; and you can’t say fairer than that.

The Estorick Collection

2013-05-08 11.03.45I discovered the Estorick Collection thanks to the information accompanying my recent subscription for an Art Pass.  And then, when I saw where it was, just off Highbury Corner, I couldn’t believe that I’d never noticed it before.  It comprises a collection of modern Italian art, with Futurists works as its core.  On the day we visited it was in a changeover period between special exhibitions, so we were only able to see four of the galleries.

It’s a small collection, but well displayed in the rooms of a tall thing Georgian House in Canonbury Square.  We had the place pretty much to ourselves, with plenty of time to look at the works and to discuss them, and then to launch into those conversations about random connections between otherwise unconnected things that always seem to be inspired by looking at art.

What with the paintings, a nice cafe and a small courtyard sheltered by the surrounding trees, it’s a good place to spend a couple of hours of anyone’s time.

2013-05-08 12.57.43After our taste of European culture we went for a walk along the towpath of the Regent’s Canal.  Walking the length of the canal at some point is on my list of things to do when the weather and my energy levels permit, but this week we settled for a stroll of half a mile or so from the point the canal emerges from the Islington Tunnel along towards Hackney.

With the overhanging trees, the lunchtime runners and the cyclists ringing their bells to announce their presence, we might have been somewhere far from inner city London.  What is it about a body of water which improves an environment?  Were it not for the water it would be like walking along a road in an industrial estate, but with it, there it was possible at times to imagine we were in the countryside.

We were in search of lunch at the Towpath cafe, and we were rewarded, by being able to sit outside to eat, even if it was a little breezy, overlooking the newly built blocks of flats which now jostle along the banks of the canal alongside the remnants of the light industrial buildings which predate them by decades.  On the way back, we stopped at another cafe for a cup of tea.  It’s all very civilised and I can recommend it as a fun way to spend an afternoon.

Becoming Picasso: Paris 1901 at the Courtauld

Becoming Picasso: Paris 1901, is a small, tightly focussed exhibition, showing a number of canvases all produced by Picasso in 1901.

The use of the word ‘becoming’ in the title of the show seems entirely appropriate, and in the canvases on show it is possible to see him assimilating the influences of the late Impressionists and Post Impressionists, trying out their subject matter and colour palette, and then moving on to something new and distinctly ‘Picasso’.  It shows a period of tremendous productivity, during which he apparently churned out paintings at an incredible daily rate; almost as if he was processing all the contemporary influences as rapidly as he could to get into his own stride.

Ironically it was the brighter earlier more derivative works which were popular and sold from his first major show at a large Parisian gallery.  The later more distinctive pieces didn’t sell, and by the end of the year, he had to return to Spain, nearly destitute.

The two self portraits show that evolution very clearly.  In the first Yo – Picasso, a young face with bold eyes stares out directly at us, a  frilly bright orange scarf throws light across the canvas, and suggests a dandy at work.  The later one, in a more muted and limited palette shows a much more melancholy lined face, still staring out, but expecting a little less immediate admiration from us, as if some of his confidence had been knocked, at least temporarily.  A couple of portrayals of a mother and her children also show a growing pessimism: in the first, the mother and baby are idealised and bright, while the second, in which a toddler drags on one hand with another baby hanging over her shoulder, suggests that it’s no longer so much fun when the number of children increases.

The accompanying literature suggests that the move towards the muted blue tones of the work he was about to embark upon, was inspired by the suicide of one of his close friends, and there are a couple of canvases relating directly to imaginings of his dead friend’s funeral and subsequent journey to heaven which I suspect are of interest only because of the period in which they were produced and their blue colour.

It’s a fascinating exhibition, delivering its lesson on the period of productivity in the artist’s life and so succinctly, so I emerged feeling better educated and with plenty of time left for a coffee.

PS, I am astonished to report that this is post number 800.

Man Ray Portraits at The National Portrait Gallery

2013-04-13 10.36.56The question at the back of my mind going around the May Ray exhibition of Portraits at the National Portrait Gallery was whether or not I could learn something new by seeing the photographs in a gallery setting, when so many of them are already so familiar;  so well known, how does one gain any perspective on them?

I know the work is important, that he was innovative and experimental, because I’ve read about him, but without knowing all of the history of the development of photography, can I look at the work on the walls of the gallery and see that?

Having been to see The Bride and the Bachelors exhibition at the Barbican, which explored the influence of Duchamp on the generation of American artists who came after him, it felt appropriate, given Duchamp’s and Man Ray’s friendship and collaborations to see this show too.  And it may have been that thought process that meant that I was expecting to see something surreal and strange in the photographs.  I wasn’t disappointed per se that there was little overt evidence of his relationship with Surrealism, but it did make me think about the nature of his photographic portraiture.

Many of the great and good of the artistic and literary world of the first half of the 20th century are represented in the exhibition, and, it was not always clear to me which had been taken because of a commercial commission, and which as snapshots of his social circle.  Well connected as he was, it seems unlikely that they were all his friends.  It is also evident, that, in comparison to the more retiring Duchamp, Man Ray embraced the celebrity high profile lifestyle.

While many of the close head portraits are startlingly well lit, bright faces and dark eyes shining out from a light background, when the photograph was of a person in a wider shot, sitting in a room or lounging on a sofa, the surroundings looked remarkably ordinary (with the exception of the late photographs of Catherine Deneuve whom he surrounded with clutter to enhance her luminous stillness).

One of the pieces that will stick in my memory is the surrealists chessboard, a collection of portraits of artists including Picasso, Magritte and Dali, everyone of them with neat hair and a collar and tie, and looking the antithesis of revolutionary.

I have a still unanswered question about the choice of the size of print on display in the exhibition.  Who decided how large the prints should be, or are these original ones made by Man Ray himself; and if they are, how did he decide how big or small to make them?  Because some are quite tiny.  In some instances it is the smallness which drew me in, necessitating close looking, making the image seem confined and restricted drawing the eye inwards, in others I couldn’t help but feel that the huge enlargements used in the publicity posters for the show had more of an impact.

The vast majority of the portraits are black and white, but towards the end of the exhibition there are some miniature coloured ones, small, like enamel miniatures at the centre of black mounts which dominate the images, making them puzzling and curiously hard to look at.

Have you seen the show?  What did you think?

Lichtenstein – A Second Visit

20130312_212555I’ve not often been to see the same exhibition twice, perhaps because there are always other new things to see, or it might be that if I really enjoyed it the first time, there is a fear that it won’t seem as good the second time around.  In the case of the Lichtenstein show currently on at Tate Modern  it was the invitation of a friend to join him at an evening reception which took me back for a second time.

My first visit had been on Members’ Preview day, where for the cost of an annual fee, I have the opportunity to see the new shows on the day before they are fully open to the public, where there are fewer people around to get in between me and the art work.  The difference between that experience and the one at an evening viewing as a guest of one of the show’s sponsors is like that between flying premium economy and first class.

For a start we were invited to enter the gallery after it had closed for the day; the turbine hall, which before I’ve only ever experienced teaming with noise and people, was near deserted, the lights, apart from some strategically place yellow and red up lighters, were off.  There were fresh flowers and individual cloth hand towels in the ladies toilets, and we were alone on the long escalator that took us up to the exhibition level.  There, we were greeted by waiters holding trays of champagne in flutes and wine in large glasses, and waitresses serving minimalist tasty morsels arranged on perspex boxes.

A young woman, her face painted to resemble the benday dots on a Lichtenstein painting, was playing the violin against a backing track supplied by a serious looking DJ with a lot of kit in the corner.  Red and yellow lights projected more dots onto the floor and the collected guests.  We were all being given an immersive Lichtenstein experience.

After a speech from the sponsor and one from Chris Dercon  the Director of Tate Modern, we were invited to visit the show.  We weren’t the first to leave the bar, but we were by no means the last.  The show was as I had remembered; I was drawn to the same things as before, but, with a different companion this time, the conversation was different.  And when our debates about the attractiveness or otherwise of a weeping blond became lively, or when we resorted to reading the booklet to work out what something was, we found ourselves in conversation with one of the Tate curating team,  strategically placed around the rooms.

There came a moment, in the space dedicated to Lichtenstein’s pastiche’s of other painters’ works, a big room containing several large pieces, that we realised we were the only two people there.  Suddenly there was a temptation to do something that would not normally be allowed, maybe a little dance, or a modest twirl around at the very least (the champagne had been very generously poured)…… I favoured the idea of having a troupe of tap dancers come through, but then I always think that when I’m somewhere with an attractively sonorous wooden floor.

It was such a different kind of experience that I think it may have spoiled me for the usual crush at any future ‘blockbuster’ exhibitions I may attend.  I did particularly enjoy chatting to the curators, especially those being deliberately controversial about the work in the show; it was good to know that the spirit of disputation and tongue in cheek disagreement about quality and commerce thrives there.

It was only when I noticed the lady with the clipboard following us, that I realised we were the last people in the exhibition.  (I should probably whisper this……. I think some people never got further than the bar….)

I had a great evening…..Thank you.

Barocci: Brilliance and Grace at The National Gallery

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As Barocci has been described in one newspaper review I have read as ‘the greatest Old Master you’ve never heard of’, for once. I don’t feel more ignorant than everyone else at an art exhibition.  I wouldn’t have chosen to visit this one had it not been for the positive things I read and heard on radio review shows.  Everyone who commented said how much they enjoyed it and wondered why they’d never heard of the artist before.

It seems that it is both a combination of the fickleness of taste in artistic fashion and the fact that Barocci did most of his work in Urbino in Italy where much of it remains in churches and other institutions.

I went thinking that the National Gallery had decided to make an exhibition out of some old stuff they’d had in a cupboard for years, but that is not the case at all.  In fact the Gallery has only one Barocci, the idiosyncratically named Madonna of  the Cat (provoking the exhibition shop to be filled with cat related souvenir tut, but let’s gloss over that).  Only one other piece in the exhibition is in a UK collection, and that is a small sketch owned by the Queen.  For the rest, they have been brought together from various homes in Italy, America and Germany.

The paintings are huge, relatively small in number and mostly on the religious themes requested by his patrons, and while I could appreciate the bright colours and some of the clever compositions, they were, for me, the least interesting elements on show.

From the sketches and drawings on display it is clear that Barocci was an obsessive sketcher, drawing hands and feet over and over again, to get the right angle, the right feeling of tension to carry the weight of a figure or to attract the attention of the viewer.  He tried compositions this way and that; in the Visitation should Mary or Elizabeth be on the right or the left, and what angle should Joseph’s hand be to show the weight of the bags?

The studies in colour for heads of characters in larger pieces somehow felt they had more energy and immediacy than when they were transposed onto the bigger canvas.  Maybe that’s just because I could see them more closely, but I think it was also because there was so much to observe and learn about the thought process of someone else, and someone who lived so many hundreds of years ago.

The finished pieces, as well as the divine, there is also something of the mundane or practical; so in The Last Supper there are servant collecting the dishes and doing the washing up; in The Entombment of Christ there are nails and hammers laid out in the foreground, setting these events in to a world that the viewers of the time would recognise.

I’m not usually a much of a fan of religious art, but the sketches and the traces of his extensive experimentation made this exhibition well worth the visit.

‘The Bride and the Bachelors’ at the Barbican

Jasper Johns’s Figure 8 (1959). Photograph: The Sonnabend Collection, New York

I left this exhibition feeling as if I had been educated rather than engaged, inspired or moved by it.

The show, currently on at the Barbican was co-curated by the French artist Philippe Parreno and examines the artistic relationships between Merce Cunningham, John Cage, Jasper Johns and Robert Rauschenberg, and how they were all influenced by the work and ideas of Marcel Duchamp.

Encompassing works by all five artists it is possible to see how the American artists, composer and choreographer, were affected by their predecessor in the ideas of conceptual art, and the merging of art and ordinary life.

So there is one of Duchamp’s urinals on display in a glass case near the beginning of the exhibition.  In Adrian Searle’s review in the Guardian he paraphrases Parreno  as [he] told me this week, you don’t really need to see Duchamp’s readymades, though a number of them are here. They too can exist as a kind of rumour, he said, and still exert their influence. You just need to know they’re there.

This is true.  There is no need to look at the thing, other than out of the corner of your eye.  A kind of checklist: Duchamp? Check.  Urinal? Check.  You know you are going to learn nothing more by examining it any more closely.  It’s a factory produced piece which probably wasn’t even put in the glass case by Duchamp.

The younger Americans were inspired by his ideas of the use of found objects, readymades and remades, and of incorporation of chance into the making of work.  I was particularly struck by the tale of a dance performance, for which set, music, performers and choreography were only brought together for the first time at its inaugural performance.  For a planner like me, that sounded too chaotic to ever have been enjoyable, but as there is no information on how the show went, I guess I’ll never know.

The exhibition comprises both paintings and sculpture as well as a sound-scape on a continuous three hour loop, and live dance on some days.  There are two grand pianos playing themselves, and a dance floor, from which the recorded sounds of dancers’ feet can be heard.

The whole experience is one of disorientation.  Is that man dressed up like Magritte standing like a statue in front of one of the canvases part of the show? (No); what about the sound of roaring traffic? (Yes), or the incessantly ringing phone? (No……, I think).  It seemed to me all about people pushing at the boundaries of what might be possible, and still call it ‘art’.  It is about absences: so there is art without artistry, white paintings with no colour, music of silence, and the sound of dancing feet but no dancers, musical instruments but no musicians.

Taken as an evocation of the representation of radical ideas, I can see that the American artists are the link between the avant garde of Duchamp’s era and the conceptual art of the present, and that was educational; but the experience itself was rather irritating, the sound-scape in particular, being as it is, plinky plonky tuneless picking at the piano, traffic from the road under the Barbican, and the thud of dancers’ feet hitting the deck (which, really, has to be the most uninteresting thing about any dancer or dance performance).

It must be inevitable that ideas are pushed to extremes by the avant garde in any era, and then the most compelling features of that work become integrated into the mainstream for the next generation, and it’s that aspect of the show that I found the most interesting, but I’m still not convinced about exhibiting piles of junk in galleries……

Rain Room at the Barbican

According to the literature, Random International combine aesthetic purity and technical sophistication, to create works, often hard won, that explore materiality and immateriality, the animate and inanimate, alike.

What this means in practice, when it comes to Rain Room, currently on as a free exhibition in the Curve at the Barbican, is an interactive installation, of rain falling, through which you are invited to walk, without getting wet.

So popular is the show that the waiting time is currently a minimum of two hours.  We decided to go anyway, and to make the wait part of the event itself, which was just as well.  Arriving at 8:45 for an opening time of 11, we were second in line, but by the time it was 9:05 there were already scores of people behind us.  The was entertaining sport in watching the consternation on the faces of the people who thought they were arriving in plenty of time before it opened to get a good place in the queue only to discover that they would be joining the line beyond the ‘four hour wait from here’ sign.

By the time 11 am arrived, the waiting area was full to bursting of cross legged people, having breakfast picnics and cups of coffee, chatting or working on the laptops they brought with them for the wait.

Finally we were allowed into the Rain Room.  A darkened space, quiet apart from the sound of falling water.  We walked slowly through the falling rain toward the bright light ahead of us.  As we approached the water parted around each person.   We stretched out our arms, and spun around, throwing our shadows up the walls, challenging the water to anticipate our moves, both hoping to catch it out, and fearing the dampening consequences of too swift a move.

It was a magical experience, being bale to watch the water come on and go off, and to see the shadows and light glinting off the raindrops.

We’d waited a long time to see it, but it was worth it.

Rain Room is on at the Barbican until 3 March.

Lichtenstein – A Retrospective at Tate Modern

IMG_3001 Lichtenstein is best known for his paintings of comic strip type images. The canvasses are large, the images of weeping blondes and lantern jawed fighter pilots are close ups in bright primary colours, with areas of flat colour delineated by black outlines juxtaposed with dots of colour, simulating the way cheap comics are printed, but magnified so that they are a challenge to the way we look at the works.  There are speech bubbles telling us the thoughts of the characters, and descriptions of the narrative in the picture, and every element is a cliché of the all America action hero comic books.

 The challenge is there to consider where popular and ‘high’ culture meet.  Is he endorsing the stereotypical images, or has he put them in high relief to make us look at them more closely?  It’s a very dispassionate, analytical way of looking at the world.

The large retrospective at the Tate Modern starts with his first pop art works, and although there are a couple of examples of his earlier works shown towards the end of the show alongside some reworkings of abstract pieces he did at the end of his life, it is as if he arrived at his distinctive style fully formed.

I feel as if I’ve seen a lot of dots and spots at Tate Modern in the last couple of years; first there was Yayoi Kusama with her obsessive application of dots to whole scenes and three dimensional installations, then the repetitive, factory produced spots from  Damien Hirst.  Lichtenstein has  his own style of dots, produced, I’ve now learnt, using something called Ben-day, a sort of stencilling process, to mimic the printing process used in pulp fiction.

I’ve seen some of the comic strip paintings before, but what I enjoyed mist about this exhibition was seeing the other groups of works he created: a series of monochrome still lives, a golf ball,  a tire, a dissolving alka selter, all sharp lines and shapes making strong graphic images, making me think about how little in line and shape are necessary to construct an image.

The next rooms contained pastiches or parodies of other great works, a sort of conversation with other artists and paintings about paintings.  It becomes clear that once he’d established his visual language, and we have become familiar with it, we can recognise it anywhere.  I enjoyed the wit and humour of these works.   His playing with the ideas of Chinese landscape where he captured a sense of perspective by using different sized dots, were a surprise too.

By the end of the exhibition, I had a much better understanding of the range of things which had interested him, and the conversation he had through his work with the history of painting.

‘Manet – Portraying Life’ at The Royal Academy

Edouard Manet ‘The Railway’ 1873

I have to be honest, I don’t really know what to make of this exhibition.  It’s definitely a proper ‘blockbuster’ show: a ‘big’ name, internet overload when booking online, a long queue outside, and crowds inside.  There’s an academic thrust to the curating, an examination of Manet’s approach to portraits, to look at whether he was painting a modern scene in which people featured, or whether he was interested in making specific portraits of known subjects.  Manet was at the centre of a wide social circle of artists, writers and thinkers in Paris, so was able to paint many of the cultural movers and shakers of his day.

I found all of this interesting.  What I found puzzling, however, from the 50 or so paintings which form this exhibition, was that if these were the only Manet’s works I had ever seen, I would seriously wonder whether he was any good at it, as there are some fairly awful canvases on display.  Several of the paintings are described as ‘never exhibited on his lifetime’, and that did make me wonder if there might be a very good reason for that.  The exhibition leaflet attempts to make a virtue of the various degrees of completion of the works in the show, some are polished and detailed, while others are more impressionistic and relaxed, and some look as if they were simply abandoned.

There are some beautiful paintings showing Manet’s skill with paint and the combinations of tones and colours, but he doesn’t appear to  be interested in any sort of psychological insight into his subjects, instead he surrounds them with images of tools of their trade or cultural interests.

I didn’t take the audio guide to the show, mainly because I find them a bit distracting and the people who do have them tend to behave in a generally annoying way, but I have since seen comment that this one is very engaging about Manet and his group of friends, and I sort of wish I’d heard it, as it sounds like stories, and I like stories, especially if the art work is disappointing.

The exhibition is co-curated by the Toledo Museum of Art, and my oh my, are they a little bit put out over there in Ohio at being ignored in the UK press coverage of the show.

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